Cruising the Sea of Cortez
by Margaret Fleming
Last time we were in Puerto Peņasco John and I were just coming out of Balboa's, one of our favorite restaurants, when John recognized an old acquaintance, Pancho Cabrales, who was now the captain of a large yacht, Fiesta. Without too much persuasion, we were induced to go along for a sunset dinner cruise. (Too bad we had just eaten.) It's an experience I would recommend to anyone.
Seeing Puerto Peņasco from the water is wholly different from seeing it from land. The perspective is different. The city looks smaller, yet more spread out. Large empty lots are interspersed between the houses. There seems to be more space available. After dark, the lights make jewel-like patterns against the black. As dusk approaches, the sunset colors assume an almost tangible quality. As I sat out on the deck, I felt almost part of a pink and lavender mist, suspended between sea and land. The weather was perfect, warm, but not hot. Even after dark it was comfortable. This was a perfect time of year for such a cruise.
The yacht cruised up along the northern shore almost to Black Mountain, then went back down past the city and the harbor south along Las Conchas and back again, 2 1/2 hours altogether. We saw a few dolphins at a distance, but I was told that they often come right up to the boat.
The hospitality was wonderful.The bar on board dispensed beer and Margaritas, as much as anyone wanted. Later the passengers gathered in the dining room for appetizers and dinner. We met an interesting woman from India, who was a hostess and server. It turned out she has a degree in English from a British university.
After dinner, there was dancing on the second deck. Everyone was in a happy, festive mood. I preferred watching the scenery to dancing, but I could hear the laughing and the music from where I sat outside. A young couple on vacation from Guanajuato sat at my table for a while. They practiced their English on me, and I practiced my Spanish on them.
While I was thus occupied, John was up in the pilot house talking to the captain Pancho, and his son Franko. Pancho told John that a couple of years ago, he had decided to become a full-time captain. He loves it, and now he wishes he had done so twenty years earlier. His family is in the boat-building business, and the Fiesta is a yacht they built originally for themselves. That explains why it is so elegant.
Pancho told me that last year he took his whole extended family on a trip down the Gulf of California, stopping at little islands on the way, watching dolphins and whales playing in the water, and just relaxing. They went as far as Cabo San Lucas on the tip of Baja California and then returned. As he described it, I could feel how much he had enjoyed it and how much he enjoyed just recalling the trip.
Pancho is only one of several customers of ours who operate cruises. Dale and Esther Donaldson of Santiago's Ocean Services also have a fine service, specializing in fishing trips, but also have sunset cruises (we took one a couple of years ago) and trips to Bird Island. The yacht Intrepid is another place to go for a cruise. It also serves dinner on board and can be chartered for longer trips for private parties.
If you've never seen Puerto Peņasco from the water, try a cruise. You won't regret it.
