Boots and Saddles
by Margaret Fleming
"Bring me my boots and saddle," says the old song. Those words might be the symbol for JR's, a new restaurant and bar that opened August 28 on Calle 13 in Puerto Peñasco. The heart of JR's is the barbecued beef, pork, turkey, and sausage smoked by JR Emrick. With this at the center, JR, his wife Vicki, and Loren and Joanne Hock, who are all partners in this new enterprise, have created a fitting ambience to surround it.The atmosphere is country-western, with marvelous attention to detail. When we went in the first time, I ordered a coke and John ordered a beer. They came to us in frosted glasses shaped like cowboy boots--a wonderful touch. Saddles--real saddles--are in evidence at the bar, where they take the place of bar stools.
JR and Vicki are well known in Puerto Peñasco, where they have owned and operated Sand and Sea Rentals for the past 5 years. They have also catered meals with JR's famous barbecue, and most recently have had a snack bar at Sunset Cantina. Loren and Joanne are from Nebraska, where he was in the cattle business for many years. Joanne is an elementary school principal in Chandler, Arizona, and commutes to Puerto Peñasco on weekends.
In keeping with the country-western theme, the outside of the restaurant is painted a barn red. Inside, the tables and chairs are of chunky wood that retains the shape of the tree, the chairs carved out to accommodate the shape of a seated human. Salt and pepper shakers are small replicas of the Mason and Ball jars our grandmothers used for canning. Small "rugs" made of tile inlaid in the floors recall the homemade rag rugs of earlier days.
JR and Vicki went on a vacation earlier this year back to the midwest, and while there searched through antique shops, yard sales, and flea markets for antique pictures and western artifacts. Loren and Joanne contributed additional paraphernalia, such as bits, spurs, and branding irons. The result is that the restaurant is a virtual museum of Western Americana, with all these things displayed on the walls and behind the bar. While we were talking to Loren, he said, "Wait right here. I'm going over to the bar and I want to show you something." We waited, and suddenly heard the sound of a bellowing bull--a bull horn Loren brought from Nebraska. Quite impressive.
Among the decorations on the walls JR and Vicki have signs that say US 66 for all the states that the old Route 66 went through, from California to Illinois. To add to the rustic decor, Vicki showed us two little dolls about 3 feet high, a boy and a girl dressed in country clothing, weeping over a milk can and a barrel. She called them "The Cry Babies."
Most of us probably think of barbed wire as just a standard item. Not so. It's an art form. Loren showed us his collection of pieces of barbed wire in dozens of different designs mounted on two boards and framed. This will be a fascinating addition to the museum.
Back to the food. We've had it before, and we knew it would be good. It was. We were there at lunch time two days in a row, and the menu featured barbecue sandwiches--beef, pork, turkey, and sausage--at very reasonable prices. When we go for dinner some time we'll enjoy whole rib sections barbecued to perfection and other down-home specialties. The second day I had a chef's salad with smoked turkey. Vicki always insists on really fresh vegetables for her salads, and this one was no exception.
JR's has assembled a wonderful staff. We immediately felt at home with our server. We also recognized with pleasure Rosa, the singing waitress, whom we first met at another restaurant several years ago. Unfortunately we got there too late to hear her sing--she had been doing it all morning and her voice needed a rest. The others we didn't get to meet, but they all seemed friendly and efficient. JR had to leave periodically to go and smoke more meat to keep up with the demand. Vicki was everywhere at once--in the kitchen supervising, in the dining room greeting friends, outside overseeing deliveries. Joanne took her turn presiding at the cash register, and she, Loren, and Vicki all periodically circled the room, welcoming and chatting with customers. It was like a gala celebration.
Most of us can probably relate to the nostalgia implicit in the hearty food and the country decor of JR's. We probably had grandparents or great-grandparents who lived on farms, raised their own food, and rode horseback to get where they needed to go. They also formed a welcoming community of friends and co-workers. That's what eating at JR's is like--Sunday dinner at the ranch.
