On our way home from Puerto Peņasco the other night we stopped in Ajo at the Big Burger Restaurant. Having carried Big Burger's ad for several months, we wanted to try one of the Cheese Monsters.

Lester, the owner, came out to talk to us about his ad and made us feel welcome immediately. We ordered a big burger and split it--it was plenty for two people struggling not to gain too much weight while still enjoying all the eating out we do on these trips.

Next time we come it will have to be on a Saturday night when they have mesquite steak grilled on the huge outdoor fireplace. The menu also features lobster tail, shrimp kabobs, crab legs, and chicken fried steak. In addition to the 12-oz. house steak, Lester offers a choice of 8-oz T-bones, 8-oz. rib eyes, 16-oz. T-bones and 16-oz rib eyes. He also serves grilled corn on the cob and a potato wrapped in foil with butter, green chilis, and onions and cooked on the grill. As he described these specialties to us, it was easy to see that he enjoys eating and cooking. He once had a gas station in this spot, but gave it up in favor of the restaurant. We think he made the right choice. Anyone can pump gas, but Lester is an artist with food.

Big Burger is well named. Everything about it is big--the fireplace, the ramada which is lighted, heated, and cooled for outdoor eating, the immense concrete tables. Lester is a big man, and the big burger itself--nicknamed the Cheese Monster--has hamburger, bacon, and four kinds of cheese, plus the usual condiments. I don't care much for hamburgers as a rule, but this was probably the best hamburger I've ever tasted.

One reason for the delicious taste is that Lester doesn't use frozen meat patties. He makes his hamburgers from fresh ground beef. And he doesn't use frozen French fries either. He gets extra large potatoes and has them cut on the site. They really are home-style.

Big Burger is a family business, so Lester has his children working with him. His oldest son helps in the restaurant, and two of the younger ones take turns emptying the trash. The day we were there was the 31st of March, and one of the boys had just discovered that since his shift was the odd-numbered days, he was going to have two in a row. He was still trying to figure how that could have happened.

While we were there, one of Lester's friends and regular customers, Thad Curtis, came in and was introduced to us as someone who could vouch for the quality of the steaks. He did. We felt immediately at home with him and his wife Nola.

Thad told us that he and Lester are community activists, who had vigorously opposed the making of Highway 85 into a toll road, as was proposed last year. Those of us who travel it regularly can thank them for their efforts on our behalf.

Thad also told us that he had helped Lester put up the ramada. Although he's not in the construction business, he lent some muscle to the job. He also mentioned that he's running for Sheriff of Pima County. He told us some stories from his experience as a law- enforcement officer, No doubt there are many more stories from his experience that he could have told us if we'd had more time.

There's always something interesting going on in Ajo--fascinating people, community projects, a relaxing atmosphere. We left, full of good food and good company.

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